If the information that this collection is also based upon the Zodiac aside from the classic French movie Les Visiteurs du Soir, I am sure that this piece above is based on the sign of Capricorn. Egotistically speaking, that's my Zodiac sign ;) Frankly, though, the above piece is dark and brooding, yet the heavy use of fur is a sign of luxury mixed in between - like many of the collections I have a reviewed before, it heavily suggests the theme of decadence.
Do permit me my little indulgences - one of my favourite models, Snejana Onopka =] That aside, I must say I love this piece because it's so ... decadent-grungy, if there's such a word. The dirty brown fabric appears to be satin - or perhaps even polyester. It's amazing because even if it's very glamorous, it looks dirty and grungy and is definitely part of the whole idea of decadence.
The draping work is just stunning. It's very simple, but the colour, the fabric, the way it is draped ... it adds a lot to what is otherwise simply a piece of fabric.
And I continue to shamelessly plug my favourite models. It's Natasha Poly in a suit that's tailored to look like that of a 17th century Renaissance soldier. The suit is clearly based on what was worn by men but here, it doesn't look overtly masculine - to the contrast, in fact, its curves suggest a femininity. And the wrist armour pieces - how could I ever forget that Galliano WANTED to feature women as knights? Also, the suit has such a powerful texture - it's grunge again, but a very pop-out-at-you sort of grunge.
I've realised how all the armour pieces so far can look so military and yet effortlessly feminine - they all use elliptical shapes to form the layers. The curves ensure that the armour pieces don't get so angular that they forget totally about the body; what's enticing and beautiful are the curves, after all, since they create a lot of movement and fluidity which are characteristic of feminine pieces. This piece above, however, doesn't need those curves - the salmon pink colour, intricate embellishments and panelled trimmings do the job of creating femininity just as well. But what creates the most beauty and fluidity is the dress itself - the draping and securing of the dress in the front looks simple - yet the dress is able to fit itself around the body such the waist is clearly outlined and no excessive fabric balloons anywhere in the outfit to ruin the flowing silhouette of the gown. The fabric is sheer, slightly translucent - it seems to capture light within itself and radiate a little bit of it in the form of a light salmon pink glow.
The first of the large finale gowns. It appears to consist of a shiny polyester fabric with another layer of black fabric below. I suspect this gown is a throwback to the first outfit on the runway for this collection - the black one with lines of "stars" running vertically downwards and Medieval and / or Renaissance motifs embellishing the front. The armour pieces return but this time complete with a helmet in the style of the Ancient Greek phalanxes (complete with feathers streaming out from the top).
The second of the large finale dresses. The helmet is no longer of a Grecian style but appears to be ... a modern military one, except in brown? More feathers snake out from the helmet. The beautiful part of this piece is how the colour transits from yellow down to a greenish blue at the bottom. I cannot fathom the dyeing work needed to get the whole colour gradient right.
The fourth of the large finale gowns. No, I haven't miscounted - I only picked those that are truly eye-catching and worth saying something about. I picked this piece because I am totally bowled over by the amazing way the large trench suit is cut and how it fans out from the waist down. The silhouette is imposing and the large collar and sleeves with the complex but very rich decorations around the edges. And the armour piece has shifted down to the right leg instead. And the military suit-gown is cut to fit the figure almost perfectly! I am completely overtaken.
I am speechless. Having just complimented the previous piece so much, I risk repeating myself.
What I can say though, is that at last, the armour pieces are no longer all over the place; here we have almost a full set. The craftsmanship of the piece is beyond description and the gold embellishment goes perfectly with the black armour. Phenomenal.
Breathtaking. The beauty and magnificence of this piece speaks for itself. The piece transits from dark blue around the décolleté area down to a very light sky blue around the edge of the dress. The message is simple: it's dawn, and the ultimate fashion fantasy of the stars and constellations has ended.
Overall, a majority of the pieces in this collection were amazing, the details were meticulously done and the craftsmanship was beyond professional. The only qualm I have about the whole collection is that it's a little too eclectic, making it difficult to reconcile any differences.
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